It was built in 1930, very much for the same reason as the Church of the Good Shepherd at Tekapo to honour the pioneers of its district, particularly the Burnett family.
As with the Tekapo church, in a thousand years when archaeologists and pilgrims go in search of ancient relics, St. David’s will still be there. It has the lasting qualities of the Celtic and Saxon churches of Britain. Its design, not surprisingly, won for Herbert Hall the New Zealand Institute of Architects Gold Medal for 1934.
Waitiri Creek WinesOur class project in the Gibbston Valley..... building an area for their pizza oven, retaining walls, seating, small amount of veneer..... heaps of paving....
Lay the paving down, working in an area of about 1m (3 ft) square at a time. Fit the pieces together like a jigsaw, keeping the gaps small, and then re-arrange them until you are happy with their position. You may find that you need to trim some pieces to size. It is usually best to place the large pieces first, and then use the smaller ones to infill the gaps.
Check that central slabs are level with the edging pieces and bed them on sand or a 5 cm thick bed of mortar (10 parts grit sand to 1 part cement). Use a mallet or a block of wood and a hammer to bed each piece firmly in position. Test each piece to ensure that it doesn't rock or move; lift pieces and remove or add mortar or sand as necessary until they are firm and level.
After finishing our concrete pavers section, we moved onto creating a path to join our pavers to the roadside. We decided to construct this from Schist, we spent two days at the other campus stealing massive slabs of rock.... then shaping them to paver style.
We dug out the old path and compacted the ground in preparation, laid out some dividing boards to allow for movement over time.
The term "crazy paving" refers to the 'crazed' appearance of the finished surface,it is undertaken as an allegedly simple alternative to more traditional paving, or because broken flags are free or cheaper than intact units, yet, from a contractor's point of view, it costs more in terms of labour to lay a given area of crazy paving than it does for 'normal' paving.
Laying stones to get correct positions before mortar
Well-laid Crazy Paving minimises the amount of mortar or jointing visible at the finished surface. The mortar is the structural weak point of the pavement, so, the less of it there is, the better the finshed work's chances of survival beyond the first winter. All too often, Crazy Paving is badly laid, with great dollops of mortar between the pieces of stone and the whole lot fails within a couple of years.
Max getting our mix ready
The Goldfields Mining Centre is a well-known visitor attraction on the main road to Queenstown. The site is 25 hectares in size spread-out along the banks of the Kawarau River in its spectacular gorge.
As the main demonstration site for gold mining, Goldfields depicts a wide range of machinery and mining techniques to show how the early miners extracted gold from this rich field. The extraordinary stamper battery linked to the goldmine; the California sluice guns and numerous examples of hand operated tools combine to provide a complete picture of goldmining as it was carried out in Southern New Zealand.
And there is still gold to be found. It is estimated that less than a third of the gold has been taken from the site. While commercial mining is no longer permitted, the Centre is licensed for gold fossicking and many visitors find and take home with them gold they have found in the virgin soils.
Hyde Brown Schist
A metamorphic schist from central Otago essentially the same stone as the hyde grey it has been selected from hyde schist for its exellent brown tones. An ideal building stone with good grain and workability.
Alexandra Brown Schist
This richly coloured schist from central otago contains many warm colours of brown with hints of sienna and white quartz. This schist has a typical rustic look and colour found in the south island when laid traditionally. Looks exeptional when machined and laid in a modern contemporary drystack style due to its natural colour and texture.
Cluden Schist is from the Cluden Station Valley in the Tarras region also known by some as 'Wanaka schist' and is easily one of the best building stones available.
It has a light grey colour base with hints of brown typical of the Tarras region and a perfectly straight grain ideal for dry-stack styles.
This stone produces some of the best schist paving slabs.
A Metamorphic Schist from Central Otago near Arrowtown a Queenstown favorite. A uniformly light grey stone with many linear quartz lines with very few occasional light brown tones where the stone has oxidised which can be hand selected out if required.
It has an silver/shimmery effect and is the favorite of many New Zealand stonemasons due to its natural grain. When it is split down to a thin profile and laid in a tight dry-stack style it can be very eye catching and contemporary,
An Otago Schist from the Tarras region predominenly grey with flecks of brown and black layers, has an overall pastel tone to it. Ideally suited to the oldern smeared mortar join of the gold rush era. The picture shown is a recessed mortar random ashlar bond dry-stack style.
Hyde Grey Schist
A Metamorphic schist from the Hyde region of central Otago, mostly a light grey with suttle softening brown tones here and there.
Hyde grey is easily one of the best 'building' schist stones available, not only has it got an attractive colour but also it has a hardness and grain that is ideal for stonemasons. It can be split cleanly along the grain with ease, whilst also being hard enough to enable a clean and accurate 'cross grain' cut with use of an hydraulic guillotine without crushing the stone, this makes it an ideal building stone.
A metamorphic schist from central Otago and the favorite of many stonemasons, has a good natural grain making it ideally suited for beginner DIYers.
It Produces a traditional schist look, with warm autumn colours.
Orienting pavers at 45 degrees to the home draws attention to the area, turning it into a feature.
Two different sizes are used to create a random effect.
This is a mix of random coursed and herringbone patterns.
This is a straightforward one size pattern.
One of the easiest patterns to work with
A slightly more complex pattern, but creates a unique visual effect.
Laying The Pavers:
Compacting The Pavers:
Your pavers now need to be consistently compacted over the whole area.
In most cases further maintenance will be unnecessary. Where your paving is subject to heavy runoff, washing or vacuuming; you may need to top up the joint sand periodically. Special sealers and jointing sands are available. Ask your placemakers Firth Centre. Should you need to lift your pavers to get at underground services, relay them following the same procedures.
BASE COURSE MATERIAL
Preparing The Sub-grade:
Even after excavating, the sub grade might have holes that need filling to bring it up to the desired level. Fill these with base material, and compact in layers no more than 100mm thick using a plate compactor or rammer.
The finished sub-grade level should match within 20mm, the contour of the finished paving
Preparing Base Course:
This should also be laid in layers no thicker than 100mm and compacted to a uniform dense condition, especially around manholes and kerbs. The finished texture of the base course should not allow bedding sand to filter through.
The final surface of the base course should match the contour of your finished paving with no bumps, and no holes deeper than 10mm.
Soldier course of standing pavers
Preparing Bedding Sand:
Bedding sand supports your pavers, but will not hide irregularities in the base course. It should be damp but not wet, coarse river sand (not beach sand).
- Don't compact bedding sand directly. It compacts under the pavers. To test how much the thickness will reduce, spread some sand over a small area. Laya paver on top, and thump that with a rubber hammer. The resulting reduction in sand thickness will tell you how much your sand compacts.
- Pave in manageable sized areas. Spread sand only over an area you know you can finish in one session. Spread the sand to slightly more than the depth your rubber hammer test indicated would produce a compacted sand depth of between 20mm and 30mm. That will usually be 35mm to 40mm.
- Screed the sand to a uniform level. As with any screeding, you need guides or runners at each side to run your screed board on. If you have already laid a soldier or kerb course, you may be able to use that to support your runners. If not, you'll need to drive pegs, and fix your runners to them, just like concrete boxing.
The manageable way to lay hardwearing paths, patios, courtyards and driveways, while avoiding the sameness of plain concrete. Pavers can be laid in stages, and even better, lifted if drains, cables or pipes underneath need servicing
Draw the area you want to pave, to scale. From that, estimate the quantities you need.
Buy all your pavers from one outlet and from the same batch if possible. That avoids differences in colour that can result from different batches. If you can't buy all one batch, mix the pavers up before laying.
Weight of traffic: some pavers can withstand only pedestrian use. Others will take light vehicle traffic. Even stronger pavers will handle heavy vehicles. Check specifications with PlaceMakers.
Paver shape and size
Should suit the size and shape of the area being paved.
Extensive areas of paving, particularly when large of soft top soil have to be dug out, require large volumes of materials. There are four main materials:
- Bedding sand
- Base course material (usually)
- Jointing sand
- Paver thickness is set by the expected weight of traffic.
- Bedding sand is laid between 20mm and 3Omm thick.
- Base course is the only variable. It is the foundation of your paving. The thickness of the base course depends on the firmness of the underlying ground, or "sub-grade". Soft sub-grade has to be dug out deeper, because it needs a thicker base course than hard sub-grade. To test the sub-grade, dig down to about 200mm in several places within the planned paved area, then test the hardness of the sub-grade by walking on and stamping your heel into it.
|SUB GRADE TESTING
|Paver thickness (driveway)||60mm|
| Base Course (assume
moderate sub grade firmness)
| Excavation depth below
the top surface of the
Built across the face of a bank or slope to keep soil from slipping.
Are used to retain features such as terraces, cuttings, embankments and the soil of raised beds and planters.
Are amongst the oldest and most basic of stone structures.
Are often required in the early stages of a construction project, as areas are levelled off.
Adequate drainage for a retaining wall must be provided.
Retaining walls can be either gravity or cantilever types.
Dry stone tips:
Day 1 And 2: